Latitude 38 is the West's premier sailing and marine magazine, published in print monthly. Our popular Classy Classified ads are available in the print magazine and.Here are some common questions about diesels. My Yanmar 1. GM1. How did this occur, and how is it prevented in the future? How do I clean the oil stains and prep the engine space for painting? I just bought a boat that has not been used for several years. How do I start the old diesel engine that has been sitting idle all his time? How should I break in my new engine? Is my boat underpowered? How do I align my engine and prop shaft? Here are some common questions about diesels. My Yanmar 1GM10 engine lost compression from carbon build up on the exhaust valve. How did this occur, and how is it. The Newport Sailboat was built by Capital Yachts, Inc. from 1971 to 1996 in Harbor City California. This review will focus on the Newport 30-MKIII, our is a 1985. The prop (VARIFOLD 15”x9”) worked well for me this year. It worked very quietly with very little noise, and at any speedI have had the boat at 6.2 kn at ¾. These installation notes apply only to the Martec Mark III Eliptec folding propeller series. Please Note: Do not mix parts from. Why did the engine suddenly stop? There's black smoke coming out the exhaust, why? How long should my old Volvo engine last? Should I use OEM oil filters? What about props and the right pitch? My engine is hard to start unless I use starting fluid. Why is the engine overheating? Where can I get some engine maintenance training? Why should I repower my boat with a diesel? I'm buying an older boat, what about the engine? What should I expect from a mechanic and how much should I pay? I'm doing a survey on a Pearson 3. Selling Used Boat Equipment? if you are one of the best places is UsedBoatEquipment.com. UsedBoatEquipment.com is a website for selling used equipment like a Craig. I look for? Why should I worry about idling the engine? My Yanmar engine just stopped, what should I do? How should I install a new fuel pickup? How much will it cost to repower my boat? How can I change oil easier and without the mess? The valve problem you describe can be caused by: 1] excessive idling [longer than 5 minutes]. Also, those cast iron Yanmar exhaust elbows are problematical. They like to accumulate carbon, and clog. I have "fixed" several engines that refused to run by replacing just the elbow ! This part should be replaced with a non clogging type elbow. Beta Marine's exhaust elbows are made of stainless steel, and will not clog. To clean oil from the engine space: Use TSP and a nylon scrub brush, then flush with water. After drying, use "Brakleen" available at auto parts stores. Now scratch the surface with 1. I like the white paint, it is also available in grey. Here's the short version of restarting an old diesel engine. NAPA auto parts has top quality filters, and can cross reference many OEM part numbers. Shell Rotella 1. 5W4. This will prime the oil pump. Oil must be introduced into the passages around the threaded nipple, [ this leads back to the. NOT into the nipple. NOTE - All diesel engines require diesel grade oil. NEVER install gasoline grade oil into a diesel engine ! Install new oil, new oil filter, new fuel filter. NOTE - ALWAYS install the fuel filter dry. If you pre fill the filter, you have just bypassed it, and have introduced contaminants. BIG no no. 6] remove the fuel hose from the fuel supply pump, install clear vinyl tubing, lead tubing into a CLEAN, fresh can of diesel fuel. This will ensure the expensive fuel injection pump will have lubricant during engine cranking. NAPA ] into the holes. This will prelube the cylinders and piston rings. NOTE - Many engines do not have glow plugs, such as Yanmar, Volvo, or some Perkins engines. The idea is to get fogging oil into each cylinder before cranking the engine. Removing the air horns or intake manifold may allow access to the intake valves, where oil can be sprayed. Removing the fuel injectors will also allow direct access to the cylinders, HOWEVER, one must work surgically clean with fuel injection systems. Skip F. I. removal unless you are experienced. Some engines, such as early Universal and Yanmar diesels, have a compression release lever. This slightly opens the exhaust valves to relieve compression while cranking. Spraying fogging oil on top of the exhaust valve head will allow cylinder pre lubrication. Reinstall the valve cover. This will result in oil pressure throughout the engine, with the cylinders, piston rings, intake and exhaust valves being lubricated with fogging oil. NOTE - the engine will rotate very fast, as there is no compression with the glow plugs removed. There will also be a spout of vaporized oil from each glow plug hole, the mess can be minimized by placing a thick rag along the top of the engine. Reinstall all glow plugs. Place the fuel control to full engine speed. Be sure the engine shut down devise [ usually a pull cable ] is disengaged. Immediately slow the engine to 1/2 speed once it starts. Run the engine no longer than 2 minutes, or you risk burning the rubber exhaust hose. Install the raw water impeller, check trans oil, engine lube oil, and coolant levels. Start the engine, and run it at 1/2 speed for 1. DO NOT idle the engine, as this will accelerate engine wear ! Check for leaks while running. I have conflicting advise about the correct way to break in and operate my diesel - any suggestions? Harry[JED] Usual break in procedure - vary the rpm from about 3/4 engine speed to normal criuse rpm. That means you shouldn't run at any certain rpm for longer than about 1 hour. Vary the rpm so the engine doesn't develop a fixed wear pattern - and be certain you are using the correct lube oil. Don't run at max rpm for more than a few minutes, until the engine is. General engine operating rules - start engine, run in neutral at a speed just above low idle for no longer than 5 minutes. I'm assuming the ambient temp is akin to spring or summer.] Engage trans into gear, and get underway, while warming up the engine under light load [ don't run over 1/2 max rpm ] When temp gauge approaches operating temp, run at normal cruise rpm, usually about 3/4 of max rpm. The object is to bring the engine up to temp as soon as possible, so as to avoid the increased wear associated with a cool engine. AVOID EXCESSIVE IDLING! That's running it at low idle with no load for more than 5 minutes. This accelerates the engine wear considerably! When shutting down, run at reduced rpm [just above low idle] for 5 min, then shut down. Some engine makers suggest to give a final spurt of fuel [rpm] and then shut down, to clear carbon from the cylinders. Check the manual. If the engine is making lots of exhaust smoke after getting to operating temp, find the reason why and correct it! There should be barely visible smoke under normal operating conditions. BE SURE that when the engine has been running under load for 3. If it's running too cool, you are, in effect, operating it at all times while in idling mode. This will soon be expensive! For Fresh water cooled engines, that's about 1. F. Raw water cooled engines must run at a lower temp that won't allow the salts to precipitate out of the salt water. They operate at 1. F. This is another reason raw water engines don't last as long as fresh water cooled engines. I am considering the purchase of a 3. HP diesel. Several reports indicate this power plant is underpowered for this size boat. Any comments, solutions (if a significant problem)? Thanks, Andy[JED] If your vessel is indeed underpowered, the addition of a more efficient propellor for your engine / hull configuration will assure all the engine's power is used in driving the vessel. Let's assume the engine is in good mechanical condition, and is capable of running at it's rated power output. Don't jump this hurdle yet, many diesels don't make their rated power due to restricted fuel systems, old fuel, restricted air or exhaust systems, maladjusted control cables or governors, leaky valves, improper injection timing, etc.). Here is a rule of thumb for displacement hulls. If a fixed propellor, ensure the engine is reaching max rpm while the boat reaches hull speed. This will allow the engine to attain it's maximum power, and drive the boat efficiently. There should be no black smoke at hull speed, as this indicates the engine is overloaded. Assuming the boat's bottom is clean, and the engine is getting sufficient air, [clean air filter, etc.] black smoke at hull speed means the propellor is too steeply pitched. There are a few more reasons for black smoke, but we are talking propellors.). Folding props of the racing type [Martec brand] are great under sail, but are not designed for efficientcy under power. This is fine with commited racers. Folding props such as Max Prop would be advantageous for most any sailboat, due to manual blade pitch adjustability, and excellent astern powering ability. They also make minimal resistance when sailing. They are expensive, however. This is the route I would take, were I in your situation. Can you suggest a methodology for engine - shaft alignment? We put the boat in the water last Friday and the alignment is significantly out. Thanks - Bob[JED] Engine alignment - short course. Ensure the engine mounts can be adjusted, [no heavy rust on threads] and are not fatigued, sagging, or oil soaked. If the mounts are over 1. Ensure they are firmly attached to the stringers. The stud should be vertical, not canted to one side. This puts a side load on that mount and accelerates wear, it also makes alignment difficult. Disconnect the couplers by bolt removal and separate them - note any rough misalignment. Clean the mating surfaces of the couplers of any rust. Adjust the engine/transmission mounts to get the couplers in the same plane, by eye. This is the rough alignment. You may discover the mounts run out of adjustment before the engine is aligned. In this case, I would suggest it be evaluated by a mechanic, as the engine mount/strut system will have to be rebuilt. Now slide the shaft coupler forward to contact the transmission coupler. They should mate evenly - just imagine both couplers are pistons in the same cylinder - contact should be made flat and square - check with a straightedge around the couplers for a concentric fit. Now for the final adjustment - get comfy, and insert a . Check for even fit all around the coupler circumference. Adjust the engine mounts to this standard, while maintaining the couplers inside the imaginary cylinder. Take your time, it's not easy! When done, torque down the engine mount lock nuts and recheck alignment. Now re- install the coupler bolts using new lock washers - NOTE - these bolts are fine thread, for strength and vibration resistance. A jumper wire between opposite coupler bolts - 1. Consider installing a "Drivesaver" or other flexible unit between the couplers to compensate for the minor misalignment that happens underway.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. Archives
November 2017
Categories |